Gayle Harper

Photographer ~ Author ~ Traveler

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Tsunami on the Mississippi River? Roadtripping with a Raindrop Moment #9

August 26, 2013 by Gayle Harper 4 Comments

I slept like the dead after my first jam-packed day in Memphis and I’m coming back to life slowly. The city below my hotel room window is still fast asleep, but I have an early date with the River and the friend of a friend.

065d1027-013MemphisSmYesterday, at the end of a laugh-filled and surprise-filled day, my new buddy Diana Threadgill (who will be another day’s tale), suddenly said, “Oh my gosh! You have got to meet my friend, Joe Royer! I am calling him right now!” Then, quicker than I could say, “Serendipity,” Joe and I had made a plan to meet early this morning to get out on the Mississippi River in his sea kayak.

The River is nearly a mile wide at Memphis and it looks every inch of that as Joe and I settle into his 22-foot  sea kayak.  The dark water looks smooth and glassy, but I know very well the strength of the current underneath it. After a few quick instructions, we paddle out of the small harbor into the vast, open River. My heart clutches a bit – I’ve never experienced the River from such a perspective. Sitting at river level, with just inches of boat on either side, the commanding power of this great River is stunning.

“The River has a reputation for being dangerous,” Joe says from the stern, “but if you respect it and learn the proper skills, it is safe and fun.” Joe has done this hundreds of times and he is as comfortable here as I am behind the wheel of my car, so I relax into the soothing rhythm of our paddling. The kayak slices silently through the current and of all the ways I have been with and on this River, I have never felt such a sublime intimacy with it.

photo by Joe Royer

photo by Joe Royer

Suddenly, the quiet is shattered by the familiar moan of a barge horn. I can’t see it yet, but it sounds very close. In the next second, it appears – and the thing looks colossal! It looks to be racing right toward us at breakneck speed! I’m on full alert and ready for Joe to maneuver us closer to shore, but he paddles on at the same tranquil pace. I glance back at him and he smiles. There is no way he is not aware of its presence, so I wait. Another blast of the horn and my spine tingles and my hold on the paddle becomes a white-knuckled death grip, but still there is no reaction from Joe.

065d1027-410MemphisBargeKayakSmThe barge has rounded the bend now and is pointed upriver and we are clearly a safe distance from it. As it churns past us, however, I see the wake angling out from behind and it looks like a mountainous tidal wave! It rolls toward us and I quickly store my camera where it will be safe and brace myself. I hold my breath and prepare for the onslaught. The kayak makes an agile and seemingly effortless turn slightly toward the wake that now is looking to me like a freakin’ tsunami .……and……. with a gentle rise and fall, we are up and down and once again cruising on flat water. It was almost nothing! I nearly laugh out loud with relief and embarrassment. If Joe has noticed my greenhorn anxiety, he kindly makes no comment and we simply paddle onward.

065d1027-429MemphisTNKayakSmWith my heartbeat back to normal, we glide beneath the Hernando de Soto Bridge. Above us are six lanes of morning rush hour traffic on Interstate 40. I think about the hundreds of commuters in those streams of vehicles and the contrast between their experience of this moment and my own is so profound that it brings a rush of emotion. After 66 days of keeping company with this amazing River, I am still sometimes overwhelmed at my good fortune to be making this journey.

P.S. While you’re here – if you haven’t done so yet, I hope you will sign up to be notified when new posts go up, either by email in the box to the right or by RSS. See you next time!  Thanks for traveling with us!

Filed Under: Roadtripping With a Raindrop #9: Tsunami on the Mississippi?, TN - Memphis Tagged With: Great River Road, Memphis, Mississippi River, sea kayaking, Tennessee, travel America

The Not-So-Famous Side of Memphis

November 1, 2010 by Gayle Harper 2 Comments

I had a few thoughts of what I might want to cover in Memphis. That’s what I get for thinking I have anything to say about it! Serendipity had other (and of course better) things in mind. There’s a wonderful (I’m told) Mississippi River Museum on Mud Island with an exact scale model of the Lower Mississippi that is 5 blocks long. That was number one on “my list”. It’s also, of course, the home of Elvis Presley, and since I have never been to Graceland, that was number two. Number three was to sample some of the music Memphis is famous for, probably on Beale Street. All of that is well worth doing if you come, and fortunately you can read about them in plenty of other places, because I didn’t do any of that!

Diana Threadgill is the Executive Director of the organization known as the Mississippi River Corridor of Tennessee, helping people to understand and appreciate this priceless natural resource. When she learned of my project, she offered her assistance. Not only was she immensely helpful, but we had a great time doing it all. She even took me to her hairdresser to get my unruly locks trimmed back into shape!

Thanks to the MRCT, I was a guest at the Crowne Plaza in the heart of downtown and was able to get this shot of the city at sunrise.

As Diana showed me “her Memphis”, she shared some of the creative ways the organization is bringing people together and helping them focus their love for the Mississippi in ways that will make a difference. I was impressed by the clear vision and passion I heard.

At the riverfront, we visited the powerful sculptures honoring Tom Lee, who in 1925 single-handedly rescued 32 people from the river in his 28’ skiff after a steamboat capsized. He made five trips to shore and returned to search for more survivors, disregarding the fact that he could not swim himself!  

Then she took me to a place I would almost certainly never have visited on my own, but found fascinating – the National Ornamental Metal Museum.  It’s dedicated to preserving and teaching the skills of beautiful and creative metal working, an art form I admit to knowing zip about.

In the Blacksmith Shop, we found Holly Fisher hard at work. She’s a bright, friendly young woman from Iowa who is currently an Artist-In-Residence at the Institute. She showed us the “bracelet for a giant” she is working on and explained some of the techniques involved, and we had a few laughs in the process.

Then I donned my own eye and ear protection and followed her back into the noisy, gritty, fiery workspace. Hammers clanged, machines thumped, music blared, fires roared and Holly smiled as she let her creative spirit play. Meeting people like her and peeking into their worlds is one of my very favorite things about my job!!

Near the end of the afternoon, Diana said, “Oh! You need to meet my friend Joe Royer! I will call him right now!” Before I could say, “Serendipity”, I had a call from Joe and we had a date to get out on the Mississippi in a sea kayak the following morning.  I have, so far, been on this river in vessels ranging from the huge towboat to a canoe, but meeting it at its own level in a kayak is another experience entirely.  It’s a BIG river and if you want to really feel that, this is the way.

Joe is dedicated to teaching people how to safely recreate on the Mississippi River. “It has a reputation for being dangerous”, he said, “but if you respect it and learn the proper skills it is safe and fun.”  I did feel safe in the 22’ double sea kayak with Joe in the stern, but it would be downright terrifying to try it alone without sufficient training and experience.

When we paddled out of the harbor into the immense open river and I looked across to the opposite shore, roughly ¾ mile away, I thought about our little raindrop and all the changes through which we have followed it. It defies description, but inspires awe – this great river through the heart of our continent. Again, I am filled with gratitude for this opportunity to follow it.

We moved easily through the water, whether going with the current or against it. When a barge appeared, churning up its huge wake, my heart clutched a little, but the effect was really minimal and the sea kayak sliced right through it. It was a serene experience being face to face with the river, at its level, in its midst, feeling its unspeakable power.

Joe has done this many, many times. He kayaks the Mississippi for exercise and fun about 300 days per year. His business, Outdoors, Inc., offers equipment, clothing and instruction for paddling, biking, climbing and other “human-powered” sports.  For 30 years, he has organized a canoe and kayak race on the Mississippi, bringing participants from all over the world. The race is designed to accommodate world-class paddlers as well as providing enough safety and support boats to encourage the less experienced to give it a try. Joe knows what he is doing and he loves this river – he was the absolute perfect person with whom to do this!!  Thank You!!

Unbeknownst to me, Joe had his own camera in back and snapped this picture to share with you.

Deeper and deeper into the South…next stop is Clarksdale, Mississippi!  See ya’ll there!         Gayle

Filed Under: TN - Memphis Tagged With: Kayaking, Memphis, Mississippi River Corridor Tennessee, National Ornamental Metal Museum, Outdoors Inc

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